Safari in South Africa with Royal Malewane
Safari: a Swahili word, from the Arabic safara, meaning journey. And our three nights with Royal Malewane is definitely a soul-touching journey for us.
After a very long flight from Frankfurt to Johannesburg, followed by a shorter flight to Hoedspruit, we are warmly greeted by our guide Conrad from Royal Malewane at the Hoedspruit airport. Despite feeling dirty and exhausted after consecutive three flights of 16 hours of air travel, we can barely contain our excitement for our first Safari experience. After about 45 minutes drive, we finally arrive at the main lodge of Royal Malewane and are greeted with big smiles, cool towels with subtle scents of lavender and some refreshing fruity drinks. After a quick check-in and some safety procedures briefings (watching out for wild animals at all times and no walking along back to the room without a guide after sunset), we are lead to our home-away-home for the next three nights, the Royal Suite.
As we enter the suite, our jaws nearly drop to the floor. The luxury two-bedroom 510 sq m suite is way beyond what we have imagined. Elegantly decorated in a traditional Colonial-style by the owner Liz Biden, the suite’s decor has a playful mix of bright colors, textures, and styles. From contemporary artworks with vintage finds, popular board games to leather-binding guest book, fresh fruits to hundred-plus types of alcoholic and soft drinks, the suite is well-thought for the guests. Both bedrooms have their own individually designed ensuite bathrooms. Apart from a vast living room and dining area with kitchen, the suite has also a huge outdoor terrace completed with a crystal-clear pool and a free-standing clawfoot bathtub facing the wilderness. It looks like straight out of the movie set of “Out of Africa”.
We quickly clean up and change into our safari gear. As we unpack our bags, we could see a family of Nyalas and Kudus peacefully grazing just outside our bedrooms. Thanks to the detailed guide on “How-to Pack for Safari” sent by the reservation team of Royal Malewane before our trip, we are very well packed with our safari-style clothes in the mix of Khaki, green and beige colors.
After being fed a feast that includes a variety of fresh salad, game meats and homemade desserts and sorbets, Conrad and Kevin (our amazing tracker) bring us to an open-air safari vehicle and set out on our inaugural game drive. Every gear that we can think of that we might need for a safari experience is prepared for us, high-quality binoculars, stylish ponchos and raincoats, blankets and snacks and drinks. Talk about the details of the service! Royal Malewane is also known to have the most experienced guiding team in Africa. They have 3 of 7 Master Trackers in their team (the only 3 in the Kruger area).
Within next few hours, we encounter a herd of elephants, giraffes, hyenas, and more thanks to Kevin and Conrad’s impressive knowledge on tracking and guiding. We listen to Conrad explaining to us how animals behave and interact in the wild while Kevin point to us where to look. It is like a live National Geographic Show. The highlight, of course, is to see the lions. Let me tell you, it doesn't matter what you’ve read or heard before, or how many times you watched “Out of Africa”, nothing, NOHTING, prepares you when you are just within 3 meters ( 10 feet) of a lion in the wild for the first time. I could feel my blood filled with a euphoric feeling. There they are, the kings and queens of the African Savanna, with retractable claws, just lying there and totally indifference to our existence. We suspect that these wild animals see the massive multi-tiered Toyota Land Cruiser as an creature of its own. Many of them have grown accustomed to see these vehicles around them since they were just cubs. And thanks to the decades of respects and trusts built between them and the rangers, they do not fear the vehicles and the humans sitting inside them. That’s why we have the privilege today to watch them quietly with binoculars and film them with our phones and cameras.
After a fruitful first game drive, we are driven into a open space decorated beautifully with candle-lit lanterns on the ground and the tables.. Awaits us is a Bush Dinner prepared by the Royal Malewane staff. They first sing to us their local songs about life and invite us for a dance with them. After that, they serve us grilled chicken, beef, lamb, fish and many many other delicious dishes. With a high spirit and satisfied full belly, we finally collapse into our beds, which have very aesthetically pleasing mosquito netting over. (Side Note: For those who are worried about Malaria, South Africa in general is considered a low-risk area. Although Kruger National Park has slight higher risks than in cities such as Cape Town, the Thorny Bush Game Reserve, where Royal Malewane is located, has not had any any cases of Malaria for years. However, it is always important to speak with your family doctor before the trip to decide on the best pre-cautions for Malaria).
The following two days at Royal Malewane are even unreal than the first. Each day we have two game drives. In the mornings, we wake up at 5 am to get ready for a quick breakfast at 5:30 am. We make our way out to the game drive at 6 am, right after sunrise. Conrad and Kevin would plan the routes a bit based on what animals we wish to see or have not seen, however, most of the times, as it goes, we are just enjoying the ride in the bush based on what appear in front of us. We would be looking for lions, but then get distracted by a big family of elephants passing by. We have no expectations, just take what is given to us. Then around 7:30-8 am, our rangers find us a open and safe space to stretch out legs and have a morning snack. Freshly prepared coffee and teas with homemade cookies are served to us. After 9-9:30 am, we will go back to the lodge to enjoy our the incredible visual and delicious breakfast, which includes freshly baked pasties, fruit platter, charcuterie, and many custom-ordered dishes, such as pancakes, French toasts, avocado toasts, and more.
The evening game drives start at 4 pm. During these dusk rides, we see animals get more active as the temperatures cool down. Every evening, we see the beautiful sunset from our game vehicle as we are roaming around the bush. For our final evening game drive, Conrad, Kevin and intern Brandon, set up a sundowner table by the water hole. Overlooking the sun setting behind the mountain, the hippos puffing waters in front of us, we feel nothing but grateful to be able to experience such wonder in life, with the best companies we could imagine.
It is impossible to fully express the sheer joy we feel on these game drives. We are very privileged to be in the Thornybush private game reserve, where the game vehicles are allowed to go anywhere they please. ANYWHERE! We stalk white Rhino mom and baby in the thick bush and watch lions guarding a buffalo kill up close and personal.
We are fortunate to see most of the animals on our wishlist during our stay with Royal Malewane. Our absolute favourite sighting is a group of multi-generational wild dogs, including weeks-old puppies to dominate female leaders. Wild dogs have become a very protected spices and a rare sight due the recent large decline of their population. The puppies are playing silly together and being watched by their older siblings, while their moms are out for a hunt. With Kevin’s exceptional tracking skills and Conrad outstanding driving and guiding, we are able to follow the leading wild dog females for miles to hunt their prey. The most exciting part is watching a wild dog leaps majestically over a hill to catch an impala running for her life before quickly disappears in front of our eyes. Our hearts skip a bit.
Viewing the wildlife is undoubtedly amazing, but more interestingly we, especially the kids, learn so much about everything from animal behavior to South African history from our endlessly knowledgeable ( kind! wonderful! and hilarious!) guide and tracker Conrad and Kevin. The two of them make each drive unforgettable. (You can request guide and tracker before your stay, we cannot recommend these two highly enough!)
This first safari experience may have changed us, in subtle ways. After days of no phones, internet and other stimulates in life, we could feel our senses sharpening to the slightest rustle in the bushes, and our eyes start to spot the animals hiding behind the trees tens of meters away.
Throughout our stay, the service at Royal Malewane has been impeccable. So much thoughts clearly put to into guest experience to make sure every aspect of our stay and safari to be as special as possible. If you ever want to do a safari for the first time or repeat it, I sincerely hope you will visit Royal Malewane. As I promise, you will not regret it.
Final Note: Just a few hours after our departure, Conrad sent us an email with all the images he took for us during our Safari game drives. What a previous memory souvenir for us! Another prime example of the outstanding guest service of Royal Malewane!
